New England

We crossed the New Hampshire state line and met first real New England accent almost immediately.  This 80 something man was chatting us up at a gas station asking where "you two young women" were heading?  When we said the east coast, this gentleman who'd informed us he'd never been to the mountains told us how to drive to Florida from Maine without paying a toll.  "Yuh go sowt on I 81 to I 84 with highway 71 in dare somewhere."  

I wish I could write it the way I heard it.  We had arrived someplace new.  

With limited cell service, we fell back to maps and ended up driving in circles.  I was glad we had followed this lovely road that crossed a river back and forth as we saw four covered bridges.  One bridge caused us to change our route as 12'6" clearance would not accommodate us.  

We finally decided to camp at Umbagogo Lake State Park.  In one day, we had meandered through most of northern New Hampshire and landed almost in Maine.  After setting up camp, we drove across the state line to see if we had phone service in Maine.  Still no luck.  No Verizon service at all.  This is not common for us as we selected Verizon for its extensive network.  

The next morning it was raining, how Maine like.  On the way, out we decide to hook up Jeep in boat parking area.  Kathy admitted road weariness after discovering she'd driven from our site to this area with the parking brake on.  We smelled hot brakes, checked out our rig, sure enough they were hot after just two blocks of driving.  Back on the road with an agreement for real camping soon.   Not tonight though as we headed to Bangor to do laundry and check out town if possible.  We needed LP gas too.

In Bangor, we landed as "intentional tourists" check the reference if you dare about "the accidental tourist" for an amusing tail of hospitality.   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erwin_Kreuz


We set up camp in the park and ride lot adjacent to Walmart.  Kathy said she found it on ALLSTAYS but later conceded that parking overnight in a park and ride lot is only allowed in New Hampshire.  Anyway no one chased us away and by morning we had one class B, one trailer, one car, two vans, one pickup and one VW Camper bus joining us.   The lot is designed for rain runoff and we put leveling blocks under our front end for the frig sake and sleeping sake.  His is something we would never do in a parking lot overnight situation usually.  We disconnected jeep and parked it in front of us so we wouldn't get blocked in by morning commuters too.  It had a nice grassy area to walk the puppy and although it was full a trash can be available too.  

Bangor didn't have a good feel.  I thought "too city" but even after driving around it just felt unkempt.  We left the dog behind and drove to see Stephen King’s house.  It's easy to find and we believe he may have been home, the gate was open and two nice cars were parked near the garages.  We didn't want to disturb anyone but sat in the Jeep a little longer than we might have, thinking someone might come out of the house.  No luck though.  Driving back to the RV included a stop at L.L. Bean, no luck, there either.  We did however, see Paul Bunyan and Babe at the art institute.  

It was a very quiet night, except for the rain.  We worried about the bulge in our ceiling near the AC unit, we have a leak, I'll need to get to the next dry day.  On drove north to camp for four days with electricity, water, laundry, and free Wi-Fi for $30.  We looked intently for moose as we were told they were quite common.  We had no luck.  Narrow bumpy roads and the last five miles barely a road into Danforth.  

The Greenland Cove Park is nice, tough to get into dump station while coming in as it is designed to use while exiting.  Our site was not level, although we had asked for one.  But laundry room was cheap.  The Swimming pool closed for the season already so kids swam in the lake.  We took the Jeep for a Drive through the neighborhood looking for flyers about lake houses for sale.  We parked near the boat ramp took off our shoes and waded in the warm water. Frances is so cute but she didn't want to get wet and wouldn't go into the water.

The next day the campground got busier. More weekend neighbors filled in sites while we finished our projects on RV.  The roof leak was a simple removal of the AC cover and caulking. It was warm so I swam in the lake with the kids while Kathy and Frances watched.  After our stay, we drove south to Calais.  

Is was too warm for dry camping at Walmart so we stayed at the motor inn.  Drove to Moosehorn refuge, they did not have a stamp.  We saw no moose but watched mom and two fledgling bald eagles.  We shopped at Walmart then ate pizza at Joe's.  We Could see Canada from the dinner table.  After dinner we found the world's best beer store.  It was connected to a recycling facility, how apropros.  

We drove up to see the most northern lighthouse on the Maine coast.  Privately owned and on the St. Croix River.  Then down to national historic site of the St. Croix Island.  Back out to a different part of the refuge for stamp.  Success!  Sadly, they had a large display of confiscated objects made from endangered animals to visitors how wildlife trafficking threatens the sustainability and survival of hundreds of species worldwide. 

We packed up and drove south to Cobscook State Park.  It was nice and quiet.  We had our choice of pull thru sites.  The campground had no amenities including flush toilets but the ranger was kind and friendly.  We drove two miles to the boat launch and watched the tide come in.  This is one place you can see levels change quick rapidly as every six hours the tide raises or lowers twenty-four feet.  

At dusk, we went into the town of Lubec.  We were preparing for trip our next trip Canada to see Campobello, the Roosevelt vacation home.  

Heavy morning fog, offered muted views of coastlines and lighthouses.  We toured the Roosevelt "cottage", a house with 34 rooms.  Even today not a cottage by any definition.  We tried to join the Eleanor Tea, but it was full.  I would recommend this as part of the tour if you can attend.  Instead we drove the carriage roads in the natural areas for the island and viewed Murdoch light house before coming back into the U.S. Maria's Chocolates was an excellent side trip and yes, they ship.  I know where I'm shopping for Christmas, yes, they have sugar free confections as well.  

Back home for a relaxing afternoon of reading, napping and bbqing chicken.  The next day 11 am check out seemed early after blueberry pancakes for breakfast.  Another short drive brought us to McClenan City Park.  

Our reserved site was well marked and included our name, thanks Dennis.  Luckily it was as if we would have driven down toward the other campsites we would have been stuck with no room to turn around.  The park is clean with small tent sites and one large pull through.  As we parked Joy took a spin I the jeep to find a self-pay station or Dennis.  She found neither.  She did find a locked woodshed and office area behind which are flush toilets, a nice surprise.  She also found a picnic area with a young Canadian couple trying to figure out if they were camping or not.  They left a few minutes later.  No tap water, no dump, really roughing it.  A quick trip to town for phone service, computer access at the library, and groceries. Then home to Mrs. Dennis and paying the bill.  

Laundry with free Wi-Fi and lunch at Veldez Mexican takeout.  Yes, we crave real Mexican food and settle for store bought tortillas and Pace picante.  We shared a picnic table with two men from Texas and a local.  The man from Maine gave us advice for our Acadia trip. After finishing the laundry, we purchased crab and clam cakes from a local fishing company.  Back at camp we took a walk to the rocky edge of Atlantic Ocean sat and listened while the sun lowered behind us.  

The next morning Mr. Dennis stopped by with a large bag of green beans fresh from his garden. He wished us well as he checked garbage cans as we broken camp heading for Acadia.  

Gila Cliff Dwellings

Gila Cliff Dwellings was on my top four tourist destinations for our instate travels while living in New Mexico.  It seemed to get pushed further down the list of travel priorities, as we found so many other interesting things to do, so it was January before we headed there. 

Mapping the route was cumbersome because snow had already hit the mountains and one route had a low bridge we wouldn't fit under. We decided to play it as safe as we could and drove south to Deming and then back north up the winding roads to the Mesa Campground. We decided to stay here because of the steeper road grades closer to the Gila National Park and after driving there in the jeep - it was the right decision. Turns out we timed our trip just right as the snows from the previous day had melted off roadways and remnants lined the shadowed forest.  When we arrived, we disconnected and set up camp.  There were only 3 other campers in the campground, which overlooks a beautiful reservoir. 

Turns out we timed our trip just right as the snows from the previous day had melted off roadways and remnants lined the shadowed forest.  When we arrived at the park, we disconnected and set up camp.  There were only three other campers in the campground which overlooks a beautiful green reservoir.  

Our site had one small issue. When we turned on the water, the knob got stuck on and we could not shut it off.  I hopped into the jeep and drove to the camp host site.  No one was there and hadn't been there for some time.  It spooked me a little.  I drove back to the site, got the tool box out and ended up fixing the spigot ourselves.  The valve ball had become rusty and got stuck.  

That evening we took a family walk around the park, which we had to ourselves.  Keila, our thirteen year old Labrador, was tired and walked slowly while Frances, our four year old toy poodle, wanted to run through every site and sniff everything.  

We had an early campfire and the dogs enjoyed staying outside with us, as the air was cool and crisp.  As we headed in for bed, Frances freaked us both out.  As Kathy was trying to come into the door, Frances saw a raven that she decided was going to kill us all.  She lept out of the RV and started to chase the raven. She ran about a block in the blink of an eye. Kathy went after her, trying not to show any hint of panic, even though she was.  We knew Frances was a runner and that once she locked onto a target her hearing suddenly became disabled.  Luckily, after becoming satisfied that the raven was no longer a deadly threat, she to Kathy's calling voice, quite pleased with herself.  It was the first time since leaving Houston that Frances had sprung herself.  Unfortunately, it would not be the last.  

After a big breakfast, we headed north to the national park in the jeep.  While driving the winding roads, we realized it was good that we didn't try to camp closer.  The roads were magnificent motorcycle roads except for the culverts on the corners but would have been treacherous in a 31-foot motor home. The drive was absolutely beautiful and the photo opportunities numerous.

After passing through the little location of Gila, we finally got to the park headquarters.  We went inside and got Kathy's Passport America stamp and information about the park.  A guided tour of the caves started in an hour or so but we could climb the path on our own and walk through the caves and explore.  We did just that.  

The climb was moderately strenuous and we took several breaks.  We chatted with one of the volunteers as we climbed.  He was an older man who told us he lived in the park's staff and had just completed training.  He would be helping the ranger on the guided tour and invited us to join him as he rushed ahead of us on the steep incline.  

The trail turned across the river and the temperature changed as we moved from the cool snow covered ground to warm, and then hot, barren rock walls.  When we finally saw the man-made pueblo in the natural cave openings it was awe inspiring and I felt I had come home.

I have always had a connection to Native American culture and the dwellings seemed familiar and the comfortable to me.  The southern openings allowed warm winter sunshine to heat the cave where early man had lived.  I looked through stone portholes and imagined life with a hundred or so neighbors.  Soot from long forgotten campfires stained the ceilings and rear wall while handmade bricks walled areas for rituals and privacy.  I really do think I could live in a place just like this but convincing Kathy might be a challenge.   

After our mental time travel, we made our way down and found the warmth had melted more snow and the stream was running fast and cold.  In the little town of Gila, we visited the local store and shopped for local jams and jellies.  Of course we bought green chile jam made by local native americans.  We learned of hot springs in the area and made our plan for the next day.  

Our second night in camp we skipped the fire and played cards.  We'd become avid Spades players thanks to our friends Fay and Mary, fellow volunteers at Bosque del Apache NRW. We needed to practice, though, because they had been winning too many games.  We played a few hands and discussed playing strategies before bed.  

The next morning, we grabbed our swim suits and headed back up to Gila.  This time we turned toward the Gila River.  We knew we found the right place when we happened upon naked man putting on a pair of jeans next to his motorcycle.  Luckily, he and his friends had finished their soaks and were leaving.  

We checked out the self pay box, found the restroom to change, and selected a natural stone-lined hot spring pool to soak.  The temperature was about 105 while the other two pools were a little cooler.  We stayed in the pool closest to the road, where signs asked people to be family friendly, aka WEAR CLOTHES.

It was a wonderful pool except it needed to be cleaned.  The algae on the river rock bottom released with our movement and began floating in the water with us.  After realizing this, we tried to not stir anymore up.  After a long warm soak while watching the Gila River amble by, we were refreshed and ready to head back to camp and then home. 

We saw several javelinas scramble up the rough terrain on one corner of the road and wild turkeys on another as we drove back to the campground.  We decided to stop at a historical marker which boasted of an native american camp in the area.  We actually found many pieces of ancient broken pottery just laying in the grass.  It was nice leaving them for others to come and discover as well.  

The drive down the mountain seemed easier than the one up, but the sky was clouding up and we needed to watch for an incoming winter storm. We decided to stop in Demming for lunch.  It was just a mile or two off our route home and gave us time to check the weather. Kathy found us a little restaurant in a historical old downtown building. In fact, it was a garage in an alley that advertised soul food.  Sure enough, it was real southern cooking with ribs, greens, and pecan pie.  Yummy!

Back on the road, we opted to go back through Hatch, the route we had come.  The storm seemed to go south, but as we got to Hatch it was obvious the snow had come through this area too.  Luckily, the roads were not icy and the snow was light.  We made it back to the refuge to find a wonderful white blanket of snow.